Noia

An image of a town square in Noia, including the Church of San Martín
Church of San Martín, Noia

Located in Galicia in northwestern Spain, Noia was a busy commercial port town during the Middle Ages. Multiple historic buildings survive in the town, including the Church of San Martín and the Church of Santa María a Nova.

Berengar of Landorra briefly retreated to Noia shortly after his 1317 appointment as Archbishop of Santiago de Compostela, which occasioned a rebellion by the Compostelan townspeople against episcopal lordship over the town. These events are described in the Gesta Berengarii. In July 1320, Berengar convinced Maria de Molina, grandmother and tutor of the young Castilian king Alfonso XI, to grant tax exemptions to the town of Noia. Years later, Berengar was responsible for the construction of Santa Maria a Nova, consecrated on January 28, 1327.

An image of the front of the Church of Santa María a Nova in Noia
Church of Santa María a Nova

References & Further Reading

González Balasch, María Teresa, ed. Tumbo B de la Catedral de Santiago. Santiago de Compostela: Edicios do Castro, 2004. 157-158.

Santa María de Sobrado

Image of the cloister at Santa María de Sobrado.

Sobrado Abbey (known in Galician as “Mosteiro de Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes” and in Castilian as “Monasterio de Santa María de Sobrado de los Monjes”) was initially founded in the tenth century by Count Hermengildo and his wife Paterna. It became affiliated with the Cistercian Order as a daughter house of Clairvaux in 1142, making it one of the Order’s earlier houses on the Iberian peninsula.

Location

Map indicating the location of Sobrado: It is in Galicia, in northwestern Spain.

Background on the Cistercians

According to the traditional foundation narrative, Cistercian monasticism dates to 1098, arising from a conscious effort to reform monastic life and return to a “purer” adherence to the sixth-century Benedictine Rule. The Cistercians are known for eschewing the luxuries that had become common in eleventh-century monasteries and for their austere artistic and architectural style, which lacked elaborate ornamentation. As the foundation narrative goes, in 1098, Robert, abbot of Molesme, and a group of followers abandoned their abbey to start a new community that was more isolated and more obedient to the Rule. They founded this new community at Cîteaux, though they struggled during their early years. Bernard (1090-1153) joined the monastery with a group of friends in 1112, and his activity a prolific writer, preacher, and abbot of the newly founded Cistercian house Clairvaux appears to have rejuvenated the Order, spurring its expansion over the subsequent decades. 

In addition to simplicity and austerity, the Cistercians valued manual labor such as work in the fields. As the Benedictine Rule instructed: “Idleness is the enemy of the soul. The brethren, therefore, must be occupied at stated hours in manual labor.” Monks, however, did not do all the work necessary for running the monastery themselves; Cistercians are well-known for their acceptance of lay brothers (conversi), often drawn from lower social classes than the monks, who performed necessary physical labor for the survival and success of the monastic community.

Over the course of the twelfth century, the Cistercian Order expanded significantly from its original house at Cîteaux, establishing monasteries in Scandinavia, the British Isles, Eastern Europe, and Iberia. Some new houses were established from scratch by existing “mother” houses, which sent monks to the new “daughter” houses and also equipped them with necessary manuscripts. Others, including Sobrado and Oia in Galicia, were already established monastic communities that were then incorporated into the Cistercian Order (though they were still integrated into the Cistercian filiation network; Clairvaux became the mother house of Sobrado). Abbots of mother houses were required to visit their daughter houses to ensure that they were following correct Cistercian practices.

The Cistercian General Chapter was the highest authority in the Order; every September, abbots convened at Cîteaux for General Chapter meetings to discuss problems, petitions, and new rules and regulations. Abbots from nearby foundations were required to attend annually, while those coming from faraway were obliged to attend less often. Thanks to Cistercian filiation networks and General Chapter meetings, the Order generally upheld an impressive level of standardization and organization across a broad geographical area.

No system is perfect–the Cistercian General Chapter often rebuked abbots who failed to attend Chapter meetings and in 1257 chastised the abbot of Sobrado, “who did not express sufficient cause for his delay away from the General Chapter.” The abbot was suspended from office for six days and instructed to attend the next Chapter meeting.1


Image of the interior of the chapter house, showing columns and vaulted ceiling.
The chapter house.

Santa María de Sobrado

Several rooms survive from the Middle Ages, including the late twelfth- or thirteenth-century chapter house, the twelfth-century chapel of St. John the Baptist, and the thirteenth-century kitchen.

Located next to the refectory, the kitchen was in use from its construction in the thirteenth century until the desamortización in the nineteenth (also known as the “Spanish confiscation,” desamortización denotes the seizure of Church assets by the Spanish government). In the center of the kitchen, four large columns surround and support the chimney.

Image inside the 13th-century kitchen at Santa María de Sobrado, including a large chimney.
The 13th-century kitchen.

1 Canivez, Statuta, vol. 2, Year 1257, #40, 432.

References & Further Reading

Primary Sources

Canivez, Joseph-Marie, ed. Statuta Capitulorum Generalium Ordinis Cisterciensis, 8 vols. Louvain: Bureaux de la Revue, 1933-41.

Secondary Works

Burton, Janet, and Julie Kerr. The Cistercians in the Middle Ages. Woodbridge: Boydell and Brewer, 2011.

Cistercian Life.” The Cistercians in Yorkshire. Project directed by Sarah Foot.

D’Emilio, James, ed. and trans. Culture and Society in Medieval Galicia: A Cultural Crossroads at the Edge of Europe. Leiden: Brill, 2015.

Jamroziak, Emilia. The Cistercians in Medieval Europe, 1090-1500. New York: Routledge, 2013.

Ordóñez, Santiago. Sobrado dos Monxes: Primer monasterio cisterciense de España. León: Edilesa, 1998.

Padrón

An image of a large stone building in Padrón

This spot was once home to a Celtic settlement and became known as Iria Flavia under the Roman emperor Titus, who ruled from 79 to 81. The town is traditionally known as the first place in Spain where St. James preached. Upon James’ death in Jerusalem, his disciples sailed with his body back to Galicia, arriving in Iria Flavia where they moored their boat to a pedrón (large stone), inspiring the town’s new name of Padrón. Visitors can still see the famous stone today at the parish church of Santiago de Padrón.

Location

A map indicating the location of Padrón: it is in Galicia, in northwestern Spain.

Padrón in the Middle Ages

During the early Middle Ages, Iria/Padrón became the seat of a bishopric. The town suffered attacks from both Vikings and Normans, prompting the construction of the defensive Torres do Oeste (West Towers) nearby on the Ulla River, at the head of the estuary known as the Ría de Arousa.

References & Further Reading

Soraluce Blond, José Ramón. Cascos históricos de Galicia. La Coruña: Arenas Publicaciones, 2011. 193-203.

Gesta Berengarii (Deeds of Berengar)

About the Text

The Gesta Berengarii is an anonymous account of Berengar of Landorra’s actions during the revolt of the townspeople of Santiago de Compostela. He was archbishop of Compostela from 1317 until 1330; the rebellion occurred from 1318 to 1320, in the wake of his appointment as archbishop.

The text begins with a brief biographical sketch, outlining Berengar’s family antecedents, youth, education, career advancement, and appointment as the Master of the Dominican Order in 1312. Five years later, Pope John XXII informed Berengar of his new appointment as the Archbishop of Santiago de Compostela, a post he was reluctant to take. “Agreeing unwillingly and under compulsion,” as the Gesta informs us, Berengar set out for Spain.

Upon arrival, Berengar met with the various political leaders of Castile, including the young king Alfonso XI and his tutors: his grandmother María de Molina, his grand-uncle Infante Juan, and his uncle Infante Pedro (“Infante” is a Spanish title roughly meaning “Prince,” denoting someone of royal lineage).

Translation: Excerpts from the Gesta Berengarii

He [Berengar] finished this [i.e. speaking with the Infantes Juan and Pedro about an imminent campaign in Granada], and was honored greatly and lavished upon by the Infantes and tutors, especially Don Juan. With his apostolic authority, he had granted dispensation to Don Juan and his consort Dona Maria, as well as to their son Don Juan and his consort Dona Isabel, for their illicitly contracted marriages. He obtained from the aforesaid tutors [Juan and Pedro] letters which he had requested regarding matters touching on his church and especially regarding the lordship of the city of Compostela, which King Fernando, in the time of his predecessors, had judged with a definitive sentence to pertain exclusively to the aforesaid church and archbishop. He then left Zamora, although still sick, towards Galicia and Compostela, his city, and set out on a direct route. He arrived at Melide, a place of his church, which is one day’s journey from Compostela, on the day of St. Martin. He was not yet restored to full health, and he delayed for some days.

In this place, the Infante Felipe came out to meet him with his consort Margarita, promising much in words but doing little in deeds, as the course of events would later demonstrate. With the help and aid of the unfaithful vassals of the church, Alfonso Suárez and the aforesaid Felipe, at that time mayordomo, the citizens of Compostela, imbued with an evil spirit against the church and the archbishop, (and who later would be made contrite by virtue of God and the apostle James), “reared their horns” [Ps. 75:4], completely denying the lordship of the town of St. James to the archbishop and the church.

This traitor Alfonso had the church of St. James under his custody along with its alcazar and the castles of Rocha Forte, Rocha de Padrón, the Torres do Oeste, and Xallas with the promise that he would return them to the archbishop upon arrival. In Melide he returned the aforesaid castles but refused to return the church with the fortress, despite being obligated by a sworn oath.

Description of the following sections: When Berengar arrived in Santiago, he was barred access to the city by its inhabitants. He tried to make deals with Infante Felipe and the townspeople but was unsuccessful, so he excommunicated everybody. When that also did not work, he besieged the town. Berengar eventually gave up on his siege. The townspeople, Alfonso Suárez de Deza, and Infante Felipe offered a deal, which turned out to be a trap:

Various deceitful agreements were made and confirmed by sworn statements and oaths that Alfonso would restore to him the church with its fortress and that the citizens would surrender the gate called la Pena to one of his vassals, through which his people would be able to enter and exit and bring in supplies and weapons as they wished. The man of God, not fully realizing the wickedness of their intention, entered the city and church [i.e. the cathedral of Santiago] with his people and troops on Sunday the 16th of September as permitted by the aforesaid treaty under many other conditions not treated here. He was led by the Infante [Felipe] and Alfonso and received by the citizens with the appearance of reverence and honor.

But once he had entered, they wished to pile evil upon more evil, and they did not wish to hand over the gate to the vassal. Rather, they violated all the established treaties, closed the gates of the city, and totally denied supplies to him and his people. They besieged the pious father and his people in the church night and day and attacked them with various types of weapons. In this fighting many were wounded and even killed, and such was the lack of supplies that many were compelled to eat meat from their horses and other foods to which they were unaccustomed.

The man of God was not disturbed by this in any way, nor was he changed from his constant proposition. Although he could have avoided it, he never wished to accept agreements with negative consequences for himself or damaging to his church. He chose to expose himself and his men to death rather than to lead the church commissioned to him into anything detrimental to its honor. 

Meanwhile, by the will of God and with the help of the virtue of his apostle wishing to offer his hand to his minister, he [Berengar] agreed to a reasonable enough treaty with the Infante [Felipe], Alfonso [Suárez de Deza], and the citizens on the 27th of September (the 12th day of his siege). Since the weather was intemperate, he left the church after the sun had set and, tired and aggrieved, he arrived at the castle of Rocha Forte at a late hour. Then he went to the Rocha de Padrón and remained there for a few days. Then, he betook himself to his town of Noia, resting there and celebrating the first clerical council that he held. At this council, he deprived all clergy both in and outside of the city and also Alfonso and other knights who had obtained rents or benefices from the church. He deprived the adherents of Alfonso and the citizens, public or hidden, of rents and benefices and publicized the deprivations at the synod. He had already dispossessed them before at Bonaval, the convent of the Friars Preacher, while he was there during the aforementioned siege of the city.

Description of the following sections: Berengar received an invitation to visit María de Molina, so he left Galicia. She convinced Infante Felipe to stop supporting the rebellious townspeople of Compostela and to agree to episcopal lordship over the town. Berengar returned to Santiago de Compostela. He, Alfonso Suárez de Deza, and the townspeople agreed on a new deal, which would hand over the town to Berengar. But before the deal became official, the townspeople and Alfonso traveled to the castle of Rocha Forte and tried to add more stipulations to the deal. They were still at the castle when the truce expired:

But the next day, the day on which they were supposed to hand over the town, the truce between the archbishop and the citizens was going to expire unless they turned over the town. The said traitor [Alfonso Suárez de Deza] made his way towards Nendos but, in order to cover up his malice, he went to the pious father at Rocha Forte before he took the road. The holy man was in the chapel of St. Euphemia with his chapter and some of his vassals, having said the mass which he was accustomed to say with great devotion and copious tears. Then the said traitor arrived with many of the council and added many new terms to those which were agreed upon and promised on the previous day, just as he had often done in all the agreements and pacts which had been made between them in the past.

When the man of God heard this, he was very amazed and surprised and said, “As far as I can see, there will never be an end to these types of treaties as long as they are continually changed, despite having been spoken and promised by you yourselves. For yesterday, at a late hour, everything which we asked for was conceded, under a promise and a pact. And unless you fulfill those things which you promised today, the truce which was made between you and us will expire. And since you will neither have completed any of them nor, as seems obvious, do you intend to complete any of them, you will have come here outside of the truce. Leave from this chapel, and I will deliberate with my chapter and my vassals about your new demands.”

When he heard this, a certain knight who was his mayordomo followed [Alfonso] out of the chapel. When he heard and was completely certain that the truce that had been made was expired at that time, and knowing that his father and lord [Berengar] would in no way profit from treaties of this sort, but rather that he was being strung along by the diabolical traitor by vain and utterly false promises and words lacking any fruit at all, he ordered (with the man of God totally ignorant) the gates of the castle to be shut firmly and guarded diligently. He called all the shield-bearers and other men of the household who knew how to use arms, along with those from the field who lived in exile outside the town of St. James and all, both clerical and lay, who had served the aforementioned man of God loyally in the said war and other situations, and those whom the profane man had exiled or caused the deaths of their friends and families. He ordered them to arm themselves quickly and fortify themselves so that the outcome which the aforesaid father and lord could not achieve by smooth words and treaties beneficial only for the said citizens and the traitor, he would be able to obtain with blades, swords, and manly deeds.

Why should I delay more? God neither permitted nor wished him to tolerate the betrayals and malicious acts of the wicked men and vile traitors any longer, and he wished the man of God to obtain rest after many labors tolerated with patience on behalf of the defense of the rights and liberties of his much afflicted and troubled church. For his most virtuous patron the apostle James presented his many fervent prayers, frequent groans, and internal sighs before his golden altar. He also wished for the basilica of the most holy apostle, so long separated and deprived of its spouse and the owed service and office of its minsters, to be released from the excrement of these mockeries imposed by the minister of Satan.

Therefore when the aforesaid men were armed and with the virtue of the blessed apostle directing them in all things, divine justice and revenge fell upon the aforementioned minister of Satan, the traitor Alfonso, and his accomplices.

The end of the story: With their leaders dead, the townspeople at last agreed to a truce. Berengar took control of Santiago de Compostela. He built a tower to fortify the cathedral.

References

Fourteenth-century manuscript containing the Gesta Berengarii, GREDOS (Gestión del Repositorio Documental de la Universidad de Salamanca), Ms. 2658.

Díaz y Díaz, Manuel, et al., ed. and trans. Hechos de Don Berenguel de Landoria, arzobispo de Santiago [Gesta Berengarii]. Santiago de Compostela: University of Santiago de Compostela, 1983. Latin edition with facing translation in Castilian.

Berengar of Landorra (c.1262-1330)

Timeline

c. 1262: Birth of Berengar

1312-1317: Master of Dominican Order

1317-1330: Archbishop of Santiago de Compostela

1318-1320: Rebellion of the townspeople in Compostela against episcopal lordship over the town; quelled by Berengar and his men

1330: Death of Berengar

The Gesta Berengarii

The Gesta Berengarii is an anonymous account of Berengar’s actions during the rebellion of the townspeople, including a brief biographical sketch.

Church of Santa María a Nova in Noia

An image of the portal of Santa María a Nova in Noia. Mary sits in the center and Berengar is depicted kneeling at her side.

Portal of Santa María a Nova, Noia: Berengar is depicted kneeling immediately to Mary’s left (from the viewer’s perspective, to Mary’s right).

Berengar was responsible for the construction of Santa María a Nova in Noia, consecrated in 1327. He is depicted on the church’s portal.

References & Further Reading

Primary Sources

Díaz y Díaz, Manuel, et al., ed. and trans. Hechos de Don Berenguel de Landoria, arzobispo de Santiago [Gesta Berengarii]. Santiago de Compostela: University of Santiago de Compostela, 1983. Latin edition with facing translation in Castilian.

Secondary Works

Berenguel de Landoira.” Xacopedia.

Church of Santa María a Nova, Noia

Overview & Exterior of the Church

The Church of Santa María a Nova in Noia is a small but striking example of late medieval Gothic architecture in Spain. It was constructed under the authority of Berengar of Landorra, Archbishop of Santiago de Compostela, and consecrated on January 28, 1327.

As you walk around the outside of the church, you’ll notice large tombstones, many dating from the late medieval period. The property’s cemetery contains medieval tombstones with a variety of inscriptions, images, and symbols, sometimes indicating membership in a guild.

There are also tombstones of nobles. These often feature their family heraldry and date from the 14th to the 19th centuries.

Frontal view of the Church of Santa María a Nova in Noia

The Portal

Santa María a Nova has three portals, two covered with porches. The main portal has a unique sculptural program, depicting the Adoration of the Magi, the Virgin Mary and Christ Child, the founding bishop Berengar, and St. Joseph.

An image of the main portal of the Church of Santa María a Nova

Interior of the Church

There is a chapel dating to 1575 on one side of the church. It features a Plateresque arch and a vault that resembles the famous scallop shells of Santiago de Compostela. Notable figures from late medieval and early modern Noia are buried inside.

Today, one of the most prominent features inside the church is an 18th-century Baroque retable.

An interior view of the Church of Santa María a Nova

You can see a number of tombstones which have been brought inside and displayed. These stones display a variety of marks and images, some with human forms (e.g. denoting a pilgrim) and others bearing the signs of a guild or profession. The tombstone to the right has two footprints inscribed, likely indicating that the deceased was a cobbler.

The golden Baroque retable, while certainly dazzling, was not present at Santa María during the Middle Ages.

References & Further Reading

Primary Sources

Díaz y Díaz, Manuel, et al., ed. and trans. Hechos de Don Berenguel de Landoria, arzobispo de Santiago [Gesta Berengarii]. Santiago de Compostela: University of Santiago de Compostela, 1983. Latin edition with facing translation in Castilian.

Secondary Sources

Soraluce Blond, José Ramón. Cascos históricos de Galicia. La Coruña: Arenas Publicaciones, 2011. 166-168.

Villa-amil y Castro, José. Iglesias gallegas de la Edad Media. Madrid: Imprenta de San Francisco de Sales, 1904.